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Small Acreage
Pasture
Management: Part
II
One of the first
considerations
in any grazing
system is stock
water. Its
availability
will dictate
which pastures
you can utilize.
Some grazing
systems drag
tanks from
paddock to
paddock, but a
more permanent
water point that
incorporates
cross-fencing or
a common lane to
water more than
one paddock at a
time is more
convenient. It
lets you keep a
closer eye on
the water source
and cuts down
the time
involved in
managing it. If
you’re in a cold
winter region,
don’t forget to
run electricity
to the tank
location. We
all have better
things to do
than chop ice
all winter!
Next, you will
need some type
of fencing,
unless you’re
willing to herd
your animals
from plant to
plant. Electric
fencing as the
most
cost-effective
method of
controlling the
time your stock
graze a given
area. Today
there are many
types of animal
containment
systems, and the
choices can be
daunting. Any
system worth its
salt will have
technical advice
available for
the potential
user; maybe even
on-the-ground
help. Don’t
hesitate to ask
for help with a
grazing plan,
watering plan,
and fence design
and placement.
There are
fencing
configurations
that allow
control of many
species,
including
horses, cattle,
sheep and goats.
Another factor
that will
influence the
fence design is
the presence of
wildlife. A
fence that must
coexist with
deer or elk may
have a
substantially
different design
that one that
does not. Let’s
look closer at
some specific
designs.
Perimeter
Fencing
For the
perimeter of the
pasture, use
permanent,
multi-strand,
high-tensile
electric
systems. The
number of wires
will vary
according to the
livestock you
wish to contain.
Horses and
mature cattle
can quite often
get by with
three wires,
while small
calves, sheep
and goats may
take five or
six.
The best posts
to use in areas
with snow loads
and wildlife has
been proven to
be solid
fiberglass.
There are no
plastic
insulators to
break, and the
flexibility of
the post helps
to overcome side
loads.
There are two
common mistakes
that people tend
to make when
trying
high-tensile
fencing for the
first time:
Posts too close!
Wires too tight!
Post spacings of
around 50 feet
are adequate
because of the
nature of
high-tensile
wire. The wires
should be
tightened just
to the point of
removing most of
the sag between
posts (around
150 to 200 lbs.
per wire). This
accomplishes two
things. First,
this design is
flexible,
allowing the
fence to absorb
wildlife
pressure and
snow loads
without
breaking.
Second, less
materials are
needed so the
initial purchase
cost and the
labor required
to install the
electric fence
is less than
conventional
fencing.
Interior
Cross-fencing
A mixture of
high-tensile
permanent and
portable
polywires and
tapes often
prove to be the
best choices for
cross fences.
Try to create
paddocks by
placing several
permanent
cross-fences on
obvious
topographical
changes, not
forgetting to
include
stockwater
inside the
paddock, or
access down a
lane to the
water. If you
are grazing
irrigated
pasture, ditches
can also be your
water source.
Two wires are
usually adequate
for mature
cattle and
larger calves,
while three
wires are a
better choice
for horses or
cattle with
smaller calves.
Use portable
polywires and
polytapes on
handy reels for
your internal
fencing. There
are many
portable post
types to choose
from. Plastic
treadins with
multiple wire
lugs to be the
most adaptable.
They can be
placed on 30-50
foot spacings,
and the wires
tightened by
hand. On
irrigated
pasture with
horses and
mature cattle,
one charged wire
may be
sufficient, but
when on dry
soils or
winter-grazing
on frozen soil
or dry snow, you
may need to use
several wires,
alternating the
polarity between
hot – ground –
hot, etc. By
carrying the
ground out to
the animal via a
wire, you remove
poor grounding
as a source of
problems.
Try not to graze
and rest each
paddock the same
number of days
regardless of
the growth stage
of the forage.
Aim for the
shortest grazing
period per
paddock needed
to harvest the
available
forage, say one
to four days,
then a minimum
30 day rest
period during
fast plant
growth. As
plant growth
slows, then
adjust to five
to ten days
grazing and 60
to 80 days of
rest per
paddock. You
can see why
multiple
paddocks are
needed to reach
these levels of
rest, but by
subdividing with
portable
electric
fencing, it
becomes
achievable.
There are also a
few things to
consider that
really help in
maintenance and
troubleshooting.
The first is
how the fences
are energized.
The heart of
any electric
fence system is
the power
source, or
energizer. A
110-volt plug-in
energizer versus
a battery or
solar unit is
generally the
best choice.
More of your
dollars can go
to power and not
batteries, solar
panels, etc.
A battery unit
is a great
choice if you
don’t have
110-volt power
available.
Also, get
specific
recommendations
as to the size
of the energizer
by matching it
to the job at
hand: How long
is the perimeter
fence? What type
of animal are
you controlling?
Does the fence
run through high
vegetation? Will
you add on to
the system
eventually? All
these questions
will help your
supplier match
an energizer to
your needs.
Lastly, consider
investing in a
digital
voltmeter
designed to
monitor your
fences and
energizer. They
are handheld
meters that
measure the
voltage output
of the
energizer, or at
any point along
the fenceline.
They are
invaluable in
diagnosing any
problems that
may crop up.
I hope this
gives you a bit
of familiarity
with what
equipment and
techniques are
available to
help in
establishing
your grazing
plan. There is
definitely a bit
of work and a
learning curve
involved, but
seeing your
critters
hock-deep in
lush grass while
your neighbors
are forking hay
(and forking out
dollars, too!)
can be
priceless! |
